Wales – Hiking Snowdon, almost.

Glyder Fawr, Snowdon, Wales

We woke up to a grey morning, on top of the windy hill where we had parked the previous evening. Even though the weather had been harsh in the night, our caravan had kept us nicely warm and dry. The cold air outside came as a bit of a shock once we opened the door.

The rain was looming around several corners, and we were planning on staying off of the mountain cliffs. Instead we were looking some options to take our way to valleys and hillsides. We had a small book with us with short walks which guided us to the small town of Beddgelert.

To get to Beddgelert we drove a short and pretty road trip down from the highlands to lush green valleys and up a river to reach this small, very very Welsh town.  Despite the slight drizzle the town managed to be very charming, lying there, surrounded by hills and green nature. We walked through it to get onto our hike further up the river, towards Llyn Dinas.

It was a relaxed stroll, we got to enjoy the serene lakeside scenery before starting to tackle the small uphill back towards the town. Up on the hillside there were some old copper mines, which intrigued us so, that we lost the trail. In our defense I must add, that the book we were following was not too clear in its descriptions…  Nevertheless we found some industrial history to enjoy at the mines and eventually had a wonderful walk and didn’t even end up too far from Beddgelert. As an added bonus, while we were approaching the village, we met some locals, who led us into some folklore.

The name of the town means Grave of Gelert, Gelert was a brave dog that got killed by its owner, a Welsh Prince. As the prince came home, he found blood on the cradle of his baby, so he came to the conclusion that the poor hound had killed the child. The prince then took to killing the dog and only moments later found the baby alive and a dead wolf in his house. The grave is now somewhat famous attraction, though Wikipedia is somewhat skeptical about the truth to this story.

The day was coming to an end, and we started moving towards our hike of the next day. Waffle was really, really looking forward to it, since we were aiming to climb up the Mt Snowdon. The Park4Night -app found us a sheltered parking spot near the town of Llanberis, and we were happy to plant our caravan there, under some maple tress. We figured it would be best to set off early the following morning, to beat the heaviest rush of hikers, so we set alarms at 8 and decided to be at the foot of the hill around 9.

The morning came and soon it was evident that starting the hike at 9 am was inevitably too late. The great weather and the fact that it was a Saturday had lured tons of people out of their homes. Every single parking spot on a 2 km radius from start of the hike was taken. To me, the steady stream of people making their way up the most famous peak in the whole of Wales was not so very inviting.

We parked somewhere, waay down the road. Waffle was mortified. We were browsing through the map, desperately trying to find a manageable way up. We were both slightly ill and massively out of shape so options were limited. Plus the idea of reaching the peak only to find 200 other tourists there, was putting me off.

Eventually, after vigorous browsing of the map, we had to give up. We were not going to climb Snowdon, not this time. Instead we locked our gazes to another mountain; Glyder Fawr, which is pretty close to the Tryfan, which we did for the starters.

It was not the spectacular peak we would have gotten with Snowdon, but a beautiful stroll nevertheless. We aimed for the ridge from Ogwen cottage, walked past the Llyn Idwal resting under the cliffs of Glyder Fawr. The trail is easy to walk on all the way to the top of the cliffs. And over there, the scenery is breathtaking. Turned out, we kind of got the Snowdon experience after all, since it is the neighboring peak, we got to enjoy the view over it. It was quite amusing actually, to see the steam train running up and down and the lines of people as black dots climbing the ridges.

The peak itself of the Glyder Fawr was very pleasing to climb. It is rugged with sharp rocks pointing to all different directions, a sight, not quite from this world. We scrambled up the peaks diligently and wandered forward on the ridge, until it came to a sudden, plummeting end. Our way down to the saddle between Gluder Fawr and Tryfan was probably the most strenuous part of this hike. The steep descent took the trail among  rocks and loose sand, and we were sliding and rolling the rocks ahead of us all the time.

It was slow advancing but eventually we were down the hill and rejoined with our little caravan. We had met some Wales dwelling Spanish people earlier and rejoined them too at the parking. We shared food and drinks, as a descent hiker does with another. And stories.

Our holiday came soon to an end. We drove away from the hills of Wales, camped in a forest full off bluebells somewhere in Luton. All hail park4night -app! In the early Sunday afternoon we plowed our way to the boat, through France and into Belgium. Monday would be there all too soon with work to do.

Luton, Bluebells, England






A Mini Getaway to Cyprus

To be honest, our expectations for Cyprus were not that high. We were expecting to find a similar touristic island as Mallorca is. So no wild nature, no peace and people everywhere. Friday the 13th was our date to fly. The curse of the date seemed to be true this time.

The winter had arrived to Belgium once again, and snowy roads were waiting for us as we headed to Zaventem to take our early morning plane to Larnaka. Against all the odds, there were no accidents on our route and even the flight got up and going in time. Fabulous things!

The whole of Europe seemed to be under a duvet of snow, as we flew over, the winter had really set in. On the southern coast of Cyprus snow was only a distant glimmer on the mountain top in the horizon. Gentle sea breeze and pleasant temperatures welcomed us as we walked out of the plane.

We faced the first surprise as we went to find the car. The steering wheel was not where we were expecting to find it. Cyprus is indeed a right-hand driving country. Waffle was understandably delighted to find this out right on the spot when he needed to get on and drive.

It was early afternoon as we left the airport behind us. We stopped by a small hypermarket to buy unnecessary supplies, like food and drinks and Cava. The supermarket seemed to be something in between French Carrefour and British Tesco, selling Finnish cheese, believe it or not.

There is a reason for all this Britishness on Cyprus. This piece of history came as all new information for me. Cyprus used to be part of the British Empire, getting its independence in 1960. In the 1940’s Turkey has invaded the northern parts of the island and there is now a disputed border. Some British bases still remain on the island, thanks to the strategic importance. (Wikipedia  helps tremendously in finding these facts.) 

We still seemed to have time for a hike before the sundown. Our destination was Pissouri beach. Our book (Rother walking guide, Cyprus) hinted us to that direction. There are some spectacular cliffs to explore.

The walk was a good 2 hour trail, perfect for the occasion. There had been a lot of rainfalls and the brittle ground of silt hadn’t been able to hold the trail still. Small canyons were everywhere. There it seemed that the Mediterranean and rain would be able to eat the whole island away with not too much effort.

The sun set as we returned to the car, painting the coast in orange.  It was time to search for a camping spot. Google said that around the Limassol Salt Lake there were some shrubs, perfect for camping. Plus we were hoping to catch a glimpse of the massive flamingo flock supposedly living in the salt lake.

That idea was not so welcomed by the British forces at the nearby military airfield. We were kindly asked to leave. So we headed back to the cliffs of Pissouri. There we got our car stuck into the slippery mud left behind by the rain. Some pushing, revving and swearing later our camp was set and the calm waves hitting the crumbling cliffs brought helped us to sleep.

We survived Friday the 13th with only small hiccups, on Saturday we pointed our mud-coated car towards the western end of the island and drove to Lara beach, which during summer is famous for the sea turtles  that come to shore to lay their eggs.

In the winter months the island is beautifully green, thanks to the rains. Also the orchards are everywhere, the ripening citruses were calling us to come and collect them. What came to us as a surprise, was that they also farm banana trees in Cyprus!

The last kilometers of the road to the walk of the day (Rother, walk 6) were fabulously bumpy. We were very much afraid that our small rental Peugeot would not survive the trip. But as we took it calmly and drove around the worst of the pot holes, we got to the restaurant, that over looks the Lara beach, that was the starting point for the hike.

The trail looked like it would be flocked by tourists during summer. it was a wide muddy and dusty path, following the coastal line. We were again happy to be there in the off-season. It was beautiful out there. White stones under our feet, the blue sea next to us and clear sky above us. The wide path was partially full of puddles and we had to jump over shrubs and rocks, but before long we reached the nesting area of turtles.

The return route went via the hiking trail E4, which goes also through Greece. The same trail we took up Mount Olympos a year back. We had a quick lunch, nibbling on the locally grown pistachios before heading on to the northern side of the peninsula, with a famous walk, called the Aphrodite trail.  There is a small pool, where according to legends the goddess herself had been bathing. It is a beautiful region, but unfortunately we did not have time to head for the trail, since the sun was setting and we still had a campsite to be found.

On the way there we had passed a large picnic area in a pine forest, that should do as a camp. The forest smelled strongly of pines and cypresses, and the picnic area supported some homeless cats, who kept us company while we cooked dinner.

The night had been chill, but we slept good. The morning brought a bright day of sunshine. It was our last full day on the island, so we decided to go and explore the mountains, hoping to find the roads still open with the snow.

Waffles driving on the right had improved, and I was not nearly as scared as I was in the beginning as we cruised through the mountain serpentine. The starting point for our hike was around 1300 meters of altitude, with nicely fresh temperatures. The walk chosen (Walk 17 / 19) took us first to the Kaledonian falls and up to a peak of some 1600 meters. The ending part of the trail was barely walked and the snow was deep, we had to wade our way through, luckily the underlying trail was  wide and still visible through the snow.

After the walk we drove our car a bit higher, to Troodos, close to the peak of Cyprian Mt. Olympos. Apparently the occasion of having snow gets even the locals rather excited and they were building snowmen. On top of cars. And just about everywhere possible. It was difficult to pass the touristic attraction without driving over someones toes.

Needles to say, we got ourselves out of there quickly. For the last night we had booked an apartment. We ended up into a small village of Pentakomo. There is an apartment hotel called The Stone House, where we got a very nice small apartment for a bargain of 29 euros, a place I warmly recommend.

We got going efficiently early in the morning. Ryanair would be taking us back to Belgium a bit after noon, so we had the whole morning to spend exploring the Larnaca salt lake, and the flamingos.

At first we only found a picturesque mosque at the shore of the lake and cats, no flamingos in sight. We headed for a muddy stampede at the lake shore, and noticed that all the birds were on the other side.  Finally we got rather close to those pink birds, who were focusing on eating. It is a funny sight, dozens of flamingos, without heads, moving across the calm water.

That was our last experience in Cyprus. We left happy, the trip had been a success and we had had many positive surprises, starting from extreme friendliness of the people and ending to beautiful bits of nature! It is not a bad idea at all, to visit this island during the calm winter months.



Teeny Weeny Winter

Rupelmonde, Spanish mill

The weather has been on the chilly side for a while already all over Belgium. Finally, this Saturday it snowed a little in Flanders! That is a rare event and is a cause for joy for many. I spotted the first kid running around with a sledge outside before 9 in the morning.

We were less amused, since it was that day that we had to take Waffle’s new buggy to be adjusted. That meant driving to Roosendaal in the Netherlands, on the snowy roads. You see, snow on the road in Belgium is not a very good thing. It causes panic and screaming and upside down cars, usually not a pretty sight. And sure enough, before we passed Antwerp we saw 3 accidents and judging by the radio, more was in the making.

With good luck we managed to get to Roosendaal in one piece and dropped of the buggy to be made narrower. That caused some discussion since the maker of Xxtreme buggies is a sworn competitor. He did not have much understanding for Waffle’s style of driving. The narrowing would change the weight balance of the thing, which would make it slower, etc. etc.

We were told to call him in two hours time to check if he was done with the thing. That gave us enough time to head for Rotterdam. The snow covered Netherlands is a beautiful sight with its muffled colors and bolders and trees appearing from the haze. Such a pity we left our camera home.

Netherlands, Winter, Snow
Here is a pic for you from couple of years back…

In Rotterdam some shopping happened. Yes. You read correctly, we went shopping. We found a street, right in the center of town, with coffee shops mixed with all sorts of small boutiques selling oddities, vintage and trinkets. Luckily we had no time to go circling too many other streets. We went home with a pair of very seventies dresses (I actually do wear normal people clothes outside of the trail), and a remarkably narrower buggy.

By Sunday all the snow was gone. It seemed to have evaporated and turned into mist. The white cloud wrapped around everything: The windmills seemed to appear from nowhere as we drove past them towards Dendermonde, where we wanted to have a walk.

There we did a loop between the rivers Scheldt and Dender. The side of the Scheldt seems to be the Dendermonde villa district.The walking path took us in between the grand houses and the river, hiding in the dense fog. I must admit, I like looking at peoples homes. Especially if they are houses I would not be able to ever own, and the ones some architect designed and by some miracle managed to sell to some poor fool.

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We were following the wonderful numbered crossing system, and our selected route took us quickly into more calm countryside. Everything was white, it felt like we were walking through a cloud, that only slowly revealed what was coming up ahead. A surprisingly lovely weather for a walk.

That was such a calm weekend. After that it is good to turn our gazes towards the trip Cyprus, which is here in a day or two. We are especially looking forward to the flocks of flamingos and the empty beaches. Maybe some mountains too!

Till then, behave all my dear people!